Acapulco

I'm currently sitting on a terrace, overlooking the Bay of Acapulco. The sight is peaceful, and certainly impressive. The city of about a million inhabitants spreads around the bay, lighting the night in a subdued way, so that a few stars are actually visible, even within the city (this never happens in other cities). A cool, steady breeze can be felt blowing from the Pacific Ocean, making the otherwise stifling 32°C (90°F) heat almost imperceptible. That's quite a feat.

One could almost think that the city is asleep, just enjoying the peace and apparent quiet. But Acapulco is a city that lives at night almost as much as it lives during the day. Perhaps even more, by some measures. Night clubs and bars pepper the city, and restaurants open their doors almost throughout the night.

A couple of years ago I wrote an article for StrayCompass.com about this beautiful Mexican port. It can be found here. Now, the city has changed little in the past few years. In many ways, it could be said that it hasn't changed at all in the past 50 years or so. Many of the city's famous restaurants and clubs have been around for decades. That doesn't mean the place is stagnant - au contraire, there's always something new going on. Recently, the city's first Irish pub opened close to Baby'O, one of Acapulco's legendary clubs. A new development to the south boasts some of the finest restaurants in the city. But it is the old Acapulco, the one that has been around for decades and has apparently not changed, the one that is reflection of a bygone era and yet as present as today, that is the Acapulco of legend. This video by LonelyPlanet will give you a good idea of what I mean.



So, if you ever have the chance, go to the Hotel Mirador and watch the cliff-divers at La Quebrada; visit the Frontón, the abandoned Jai-Alai court; go to Barra Vieja for some pescado a la talla with Beto Godoy; or simply walk around town. It is a somewhat unusual mixture of old and new, worldly and yet fully Mexican.

And if you happen to be in town on a Thursday, by all means try the pozole.